please help i need a new car

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How to Disassemble a PS3

A PlayStation 3, or PS3 as it is more commonly referred, is the third gaming system from the makers of Sony Electronics. The PS3 offers its users better graphics and a smoother game-play than its predecessors. In addition, the PlayStation 3 comes equipped with an internal Blu-Ray player. One drawback of such an expensive unit is that if anything gets damaged or needs to be replaced, the repair costs can be quite high. PlayStation 3 owners can save a lot of money in the long run by knowing how to properly disassemble their PS3 themselves.

Instructions

1. • 1
     Pull the warranty sticker off of the bottom of the PS3. This will void your warranty, so make sure that the problem you are addressing is not covered by your warranty. Note that taking your PS3 to be repaired by someone other than Sony will still void your warranty. You are not losing anything by taking apart your PS3 yourself. Under the sticker will be a small piece of rubber that hides a single screw. Remove the rubber piece and unscrew the screw.
   • 2
     Slide the faceplate off of the PlayStation 3. After the faceplate is removed, you can now separate the two halves of the plastic covering. Remove and set aside the top piece of the plastic case to expose the internal components of the PS3. On the underside of the top plastic covering, there will be a memory card slot at the bottom-right corner.
   • 
     
   • 3
     Locate and remove the Bluetooth circuit board. Remove the four screws to lift the Bluetooth board free. This is located at the bottom-left corner of the main body of the PS3 if you have the system flat on its side instead of standing up straight. This will look like a green rectangle with a tan metal covering.
   • 4
     Locate the small circuit board that controls the power and eject functions of the PlayStation 3. Remove the four Phillips-head screws in order to separate this piece from the body of the system. This is located at the bottom-right corner of the PS3, directly in front of the disc box.
   • 5
     Locate and remove the Blu-Ray/PS3 player. This is the large tan metal box that is located in the top right corner of the PS3. Unscrew the player and flip it upside down to expose the circuit board that controls it. If you want to remove the circuit board, there are five small screws that hold it in place.
   • 6
     Remove the power supply from the inside of the gaming system. This is located at the top-left corner inside the PS3. To remove this component, there will be two telephone-like plugs that have to be unplugged, one at the top and one at the bottom of the power supply. Additionally, there will be 13 screws that hold the power supply in place. The back and front plastic coverings of the PS3's shell will now easily slide free.
   • 7
     Remove the final internal component, which is the PS3's motherboard. In order to do this, remove the metal covering the rests on top of the motherboard. There will be 11 screws that border the metal covering as well as four screws in the very center, two from each of the rectangular center pieces. Once the screws are removed, the metal covering will lift off and the motherboard will be able to be removed.

How to Disable the Air Ride On a Cadillac

The air ride system on a Cadillac is a supplementary suspension system that provides the car with a smoother ride than standard hydraulic shocks and mechanical springs. At the heart of the air ride system is a compressor that fills the air shocks, located at each wheel, with the proper amount of air to keep the system stable. If the system springs a leak, the air compressor will run continuously until it finally burns itself out. If you notice this occurring, it's a good idea to disable the system to prevent damage to the compressor.

Instructions

1. • 1
     Drive the front wheels of your Cadillac onto the car ramps. Shift the Cadillac into park and apply the emergency brake.
   • 2
     Climb under the Cadillac, just below the driver's door. Look up on the left frame rail, adjacent to the fuel filter to locate the air ride compressor.
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   • 3
     Disconnect the air ride compressor wiring harness from the compressor by hand. Tie wrap the wiring harness to the compressor so it doesn't dangle and incur damage while driving.
   • 4
     Climb out from under the Cadillac and safely drive it off the car ramps.

How to Rebuild a Motorcraft Carburetor

Instructions

1. Take Down

   • 1
     Place the Motorcraft carburetor on a piece of cardboard or a shop towel. Have a small plastic tub or glass jar nearby to hold screws, washers, clips and springs that you remove during the take-down.
   • 2
     Remove the solenoid assembly above the throttle linkage arm and the vacuum diaphragm assembly at the top of the carburetor using a screwdriver or nut driver to loosen the screws on each. Place the diaphragm cover in the cleaner basket.
   • 3
     Turn the carburetor around. Remove the choke lever clip at the upper side of the unit using needle nose pliers. Remove the choke rod that connects to the base of the choke assembly using the pliers. Remove the choke ring screws, choke and choke assembly screws. Place the choke assembly in the cleaner basket.
   • 4
     Loosen and remove four screws on the face of the accelerator pump cover. Pull the diaphragm, pump return spring and inlet check valve off the carburetor. Place the pump cover in the cleaner basket.
   • 5
     Remove the top of the carburetor from the body and place the top in the basket. Discard the top gasket. Using a screwdriver, remove the venturi assembly, float, needle seats and main jets from the inside of the unit. Place the venturi assembly and float in the cleaner basket. Discard the needle seats and main jets.

   Cleaning

   • 6
     Fill a 1-gallon bucket halfway with carburetor cleaner. Immerse the basket and parts into the cleaner solution.
   • 7
     Spray the open ports in the carburetor body with spray cleaner. Wear safety glasses and clear the open ports with compressed air. Inspect the ports for lacquer deposits and clean the ports again if necessary.
   • 8
     Wear latex gloves. Lift the basket out of the cleaner solution and place the parts on the cardboard or towel. Put the carburetor body in the basket and immerse it in the cleaning solution.
   • 9
     Wipe the cleaned parts with shop rags. Avoid using paper towels that leave bits of fiber in recesses. Place the cleaned parts on a clean shop towel.
   • 10
     Remove the basket from the cleaner. Wipe the outside and inside of the carburetor body with shop rags. Inspect the body thoroughly and remove any residual deposits using spray cleaner and a shop rag.

   Assembly

   • 11
     Place the carburetor on the worktable. Install the new main jets and needle seats into the body using a screwdriver. Place the clean float in position inside the body. Install the clean venturi assembly using the saved screws and a screwdriver.
   • 12
     Put the new top gasket on the unit. Attach the top of the carburetor using the saved screws and a screwdriver or nut driver.
   • 13
     Install the new accelerator pump components in the order removed, beginning with the check valve, followed by the diaphragm and return spring. Attach the clean accelerator pump cover using the saved screws.
   • 14
     Attach the clean choke assembly using the saved screws. Install the choke and secure the choke ring using the saved screws. Reattach the choke rod and secure it using the saved choke lever clip and needle nose pliers.
   • 15
     Install the new vacuum diaphragm components into the top of the carburetor, beginning with the return spring, followed by the diaphragm and cover. Secure the cover using the saved screw.
   • 16
     Attach the new solenoid assembly to the carburetor body using the saved screw. Spray the throttle linkage and all external arms and rods with a generous amount of lubricant.

tear down 4 barrel carburetor

Proponents of fuel injection often refer to carburetors as "carefully metered fuel leaks." While somewhat pejorative, this phrase is a fairly accurate description of the purpose and function of a carburetor; fuel pressure fills the carb's fuel reservoirs ("bowls"), and engine vacuum draws the fuel through a number of valves and metering orifices into the intake tract. The fuel that flows through the carburetor is not only corrosive; it can also carry contaminants and leave a thin layer of varnish on internal components. Carburetor rebuilding isn't the simplest of procedures, but it's not particularly difficult if you approach methodically.

Instructions

1. • 1
     Drain all of the gasoline out of your carburetor and remove the fuel bowl screws or bolts. On most carburetors, there will be one on each corner. If the fuel bowls and metering block don't just slide off of the mounting studs, you may need to pry them loose with a gasket scraper. Once the bowls and metering block are free, scrape whatever gasket remains off of the carb body and metering block. Lay the components out in a straight line as you remove them.
   • 2
     Identify the metering block: it's the plate that was sandwiched between the front fuel bowl and carburetor body. Remove the power valve in the center of the metering block with a box-end wrench. Holley and Edelbrock four barrels require a 1-inch wrench for this job.
   • 3
     Remove the four accelerator pump screws from the top of the rear fuel bowl, remove the cap and lay the components you find inside the accelerator pump housing out in a straight line in the order of disassembly. Remove the fuel line fittings to access the filter elements behind them.
   • 4
     Remove the vacuum secondary housing, the throttle shaft (it will be retained with a small C-clip) and the electronic choke assembly. Do not disassemble the choke housing unless you need to fix something. Flip the carburetor over and remove the six Phillips head screws that secure the base plate to the body. Remove the Phillips head screw from the top center in between the secondary barrels. At this point, the carburetor should be completely disassembled.
   • 5
     Soak all of the metal components in 1 gallon of liquid carburetor cleaner for at least 12 hours, preferably 24. Remove the components from the cleaner bath and either allow them to air-dry for two hours or blow the passages clear with compressed air.
   • 6
     Reassemble the carb in the reverse order of disassembly, replacing the old seals, gaskets, rings and springs with the new ones included in the kit. Procedures here will vary greatly by carburetor manufacturer, kit maker and model year of carb, so you'll need to pay close attention to the kit's instructions.
   • 7
     Reinstall the carburetor base plate, followed by the vacuum secondary (making sure the new cork gasket is in place on the secondary body), the electronic choke assembly, the power valve into the metering block, the metering block on the carburetor body and the accelerator pump into the float bowls.
   • 8
     Install the new needle-and-seat assembly into the float bowls, the throttle assembly into the carb body and the float bowls onto the carburetor. Re-check all of the fittings and bolts.